There you are, we were all await­ing with bat­ed breath, the news came from the Reis him­self: Hagia Sophia will recov­er its Ottoman reli­gious iden­ti­ty if the AKP wins the munic­i­pal elec­tions in Istanbul.


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All right, this sto­ry is like a ser­pent in the Bospho­rus, but since the elec­toral match in Istan­bul may prove uncer­tain, the Reis wants to offer garan­tees to the big­ots , no mat­ter the shape of their beards, and incite them to a mas­sive vote. In brief, for those who may have doubts, giv­en the price of toma­toes, San­ta Sofia would be trans­formed again into a place of worship.

Tourists vis­it the Blue Mosque free of charge,” the Reis said… Why not Hagia Sophia, recon­vert­ed into a mosque, of course. So this would be part of a tourist pro­mo­tion gambit…

We will cer­tain­ly find a Mehmet some­where to rechris­ten the build­ing. And as for the neigh­bor­hood of Sur, destroyed in 2015, I would be much sur­prised if UNESCO fell ill over this. And while we’re at it, we could also equip with minarets the muse­ums and the palace to the glo­ry of Atatürk.

What does an elec­toral cam­paign rest upon, I ask you…

Erdoğan, pre­sum­ably read in the racist rag pub­lished by the killer in New Zealand that he wished to “lib­er­ate Hagia Sophia of its minarets“and so decid­ed to counter attack… This is the offi­cial expla­na­tion, since it appears the killings’ main tar­get was none oth­er than Turkey… The Kurds, the HDP, Gülen, racists of the the­o­ry of the Great Replace­ment, ISIS, Trump…The list of Turkey’s ene­mies keeps on grow­ing. Vot­ing for the AKP in Istan­bul would appear then to be a must for any respectable Ottoman…

These elec­tions are caus­ing deep rifts on ques­tions that have lit­tle to do with real­i­ties in Turkey. Every real prob­lem becomes the motive for an elec­toral squab­ble meant to pull votes away from the oppo­nent. But when it comes to the flag and all that, they all join forces to shoot down the same ones. And the tri­als con­tin­ue, arrests occur dai­ly, the com­mon ene­mies of the inte­ri­or and the exte­ri­or remain the same…

True, there’s less elec­toral pol­lu­tion. Because of the cri­sis, the posters and ban­ners are small­er. But big or small, ugly mugs remain ugly mugs.

And me who has­n’t been to Hagia Sophia in so long, I’ll have to hur­ry, before it becomes a free attraction!

saint sophie istanbul chat

Pho­to @Necati Ufuk Başkır


Translation by Renée Lucie Bourges
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